Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Rollercoaster Parisien

Ever been on a rollercoaster ride? Ever tried looking at the buildings and trees and people flying by? This week, I did.

Since my last entry, I have set foot in Paris' oldest and most hidden streets, visited the Latin Quarter (Le Quartier Latin), stood outside the oldest cafe in Paris, endured the bitter wind to capture the elegance of the Louvre at night, walked with my mouth open through the Palais Royal, leaned against a bridge overlooking the Seine, sat in on an extended French/Latin mass at the Cathedral of Notre-Dame, risked my life to snap a photo of the Opera house, dragged a shopping basket around the two most ubiquitous French supermarkets (Carrefour and Monoprix), and spent the equivalent of $10 (5 euros) at a photo booth at the local Metro stop. I have stood in front of such masterpieces as Le Venus de Milo, Les Noces de Cana, Le Victoire de Samothrace, and of course the Mona Lisa. I have strained my neck by looking up at the gold painted ceilings of the Opera House and the Louvre with their stone reliefs of astrological signs, age-old tapestries, and grand portraits of ancient architects, artists, narcissists, pessimists, philosophers, idealists. And I've only got lost about 5 times a day.

In addition to daily group excursions, a lovely old man called Monsieur Philippe Boyer guides us through a rapid yet detailed discourse on French literature starting from the Medieval period. Today was only the third day, and we are already half-way through the Renaissance. We've read excerpts from major works, such as a 12th century love poem called A la douceur du temps, and Perceval from the chivalry period, and more love poems from the Renaissance, such as Odes a Cassadre. Our reading for tomorrow is called La Princess de Cleves, the only and the greatest work during the Classical period.

Monsieur Boyer lectures extremely fast for two hours each morning, from 10h00 to 12h00 (the French use military time). But what makes his speech more incomprehensible is that he only speaks through one side of his mouth. His lips on the other side are pursed together possibly due to a stroke or, according to Tiffany, due to the lack of teeth. Nonetheless, he has a quirky sense of humour and an abundance of knowledge and passion for literature. French professors teach with an unconcealable passion. Such passion alone is enough motivation for me. On top of that, I love reading les poemes d'amour - for some reason, even the worst writer in the world will find some of the most beautiful words on earth to express his adoration and yearning for his beloved.

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Each student has a weekly allowance of 300 euros here in Paris, and an additional weekly allowance of 50 euros for transportation and tickets to museums, concerts, and the like. And of course, I've done a little shopping...

Countdown of the top 5 most expensive things I've purchased so far:


FIVE
What: 1.046 kg of apples ("Pink Lady"s are very big and very crisp)
How much: 4,13 euros
Where: My favorite place in France - fruits & veggies market

FOUR
What: 5 passport-size photos
How much: 5 euros
Where: Metro station photo booth (there was an adjacent hot chocolate machine - I refrained)

THREE
What: Croque Madame* + salad + fries + hot water** + funny waiter
How much: 10,80 euros without tax and tip***. 15 euros with.
Where: Cafe Panis across from La Cathedrale de Notre-Dame

TWO
What: Brown knee-length boots
How much: 30 euros
Where: Nameless street shop near La Sorbonne

ONE
What: 2-in-1 converter-adapter
How much: 52,90 euros
Where: FNAC Digital, Blvd Saint-Germain****


* Croque Madame: fried egg on top of melted cheese on top of smoked ham on top of brown toasted country bread
 ** Hot water costs 1,00 euro
*** "Le service" or "Le pourboire" - you give however much you want.
**** Either buy an adapter/converter in the States before you arrive, or go to Darty (across the street)

I spend most of my money on groceries, as I cook lunch and dinner for myself and Tiffany and for other friends in the group. Watching mum cook over the years have served me well - stir-fried eggs and tomatoes with vinegar, stir-fried cabbage and tomatoes with vinegar, stir-fried eggs and cucumbers with vinegar, noodle soup with eggs and tomatoes and cabbage and vinegar, stir-fried noodles with eggs and cabbage and cucumbers and ham and vinegar (we have little ingredients to choose from). So far, the feedback has been:

"HmMMMMMmmmm"
"You're going to be a great housewife"
"You're going to be a great wife"
"You're going to be a really good mum"
"WOW"
"Oooh vinegar"
"You're such a good cook"

Thanks Mum!!! =D
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Social problem #1: the French like to smoke.

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